by earlybird1953

I Surfed Like I’ve Never Surfed Before

I’ve waited a long 2 years to return to the condo Jan and I own, built on the Pacific sands of Canoa, Ecuador, situated nearly smack dab on the equator in South America. Yes, I wanted to see our lovely home again, but the truth is, I was desperate to snatch up my surfboard and rip on the shoulders of Canoa’s waves. And today, my first time back in the waves in nearly a year, I surfed like I’ve never surfed before.

I mean this literally. I surfed like I‘ve “never” surfed before, and it is hard not to be completely discouraged.

 I went from surfing, as seen on the top pic, a year ago, to surfing as depicted on the second pic.

I know, I know – I guess after a major shoulder injury and the subsequent surgery and physical therapy, it’s to be expected that I’d have lost “some” strength and a little skill while gaining a pound or two. But I wasn’t at all prepared to find I barely had the strength to paddle, let alone pop up and stay on my feet. I’m sure the belly fat didn’t help one bit either.

And then, as if that wasn’t depressing enough, my feet couldn’t find my stick’s center gravity point, and I looked and felt about as graceful as a pirouetting elephant on a beach ball.

While walking back onto the shore, I realized that I needed to accept where I am currently, not where I was a year ago, and decide: “Do I love this sport deeply enough to start as if I’ve never surfed before?” An easy choice.

It is time to drown my pride (what little is left after today’s exhibition), and in the morning, pick up  my surfboard, tuck it under my arm, walk into the shallows while sliding my feet to spook off stingrays and as the water deepens, confidently get back on my board, duck-dive my way to the outside and remind myself as I paddle for my next wave that I must rethink so I might rebuild, to regain what a year ago, I took for granted.

21 Comments

  1. Unknown's avatar

    The key is to look forward never backwards this is where you’re starting from and where you can continue to grow. It’ll keep you alive, awake, and thirsty for more.

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  5. Unknown's avatar

    Louise said eloquently said what I was going to. I only have one additional piece of information. When I tried comparing my life and abilities before and after I became paralyzed, I suffered complete despair. I decide my life and reference point for everything forward started at the moment of my accident. As you well know I have had phenomenal recovery. Each day I could see (and celebrate) the smallest gain even if it was just moving a finger. So I did look back to help validate my progress. Starting from your surgery date you have already made amazing progress. Love Ginny P.S. Remember to pace yourself and listen to your body.

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    2. Unknown's avatar

      He’s def to his body (As am I. I come by it honesty). He’d be better to listen to Mom about his body or possibly his doctor… And dont listen to me Dad, I’m the little red guy on your shoulder, your bad shoulder, whispering in your ear to paddle harder!

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  6. Unknown's avatar

    A great reminder of never taking our bodies, our skills, our strengths, situations, health or relationships for granted. Things can change so quickly. I have no doubt that you will back in fine form again, Ear!

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  7. Unknown's avatar

    It is so nice to see you writing like this again! I can’t wait to see the next post. So many travel posts to come!!! 🙂

    The kids totally lost it over the image of you as a pirouetting elephant on a ball, by the way. They died laughing!

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  9. Unknown's avatar

    Yoga for strength and balance. It can be as hard as you want it.
    It is available in Canoa every day but Saturday.😃
    Now you surf like me!
    See you around.

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